If there is such a thing as the best panoramic view of Hamburg, it is probably the one from Argentinienbrücke. Just a stone’s throw away, at Kuhwerder Hafen, is a real Hamburg institution: Odo’s Kaffeklappe, a kiosk for shipyard workers and long-distance lorry drivers, where proprietor Odo Wehr starts spreading bread rolls with a decorator’s spatula at 3 a.m.